Echoes of the Tian Shan — Kyrgyzstan

My backpacking journey in Kyrgyzstan through the Tian Shan Mountains began with a steady ascent from the Saryjaz River, leading me toward a 14,000-foot pass. The climb was rewarding, as I reached the pass and was greeted by an incredible view of towering peaks, all exceeding 20,000 feet. Below, the Engilchek Glacier stretched out, its terminal moraine marking a stunning landscape.

Descending into the valley, I made a fascinating discovery before reaching the glacier: a circular stone formation that was very old, yet unmistakably man-made. This discovery reminded me of burial sites and ritual circles I had observed in the Altai Mountains of Russia the previous year. These ancient structures, created by the (Turkic?) people who once inhabited the region, added an eerie and powerful sense of history to the landscape.

As I continued my descent, rather than attempting the potentially fatal crossing of the Engilchek River, I opted to cross the terminal moraine of the glacier, but that also made me uneasy. My graduate studies in glacial geology made me keenly aware of the potential dangers in such terrain. Voids and tunnels formed by the flow of meltwater beneath the glacier are common in areas like this. The looming danger became even more evident when I encountered a huge depression created by a collapsed ice cave. Though curiosity tempted me to explore deeper into the entrance of the cave, I wisely refrained. Climbing into the cave alone and without proper equipment like crampons and ropes would have been flirting with disaster. Still, the sight of the undulating surfaces in the clear blue ice walls was captivating and unforgettable.

This trek through the Tian Shan was not only a test of endurance but also a powerful journey through the ancient past and the dynamic forces of nature that continue to shape the land.