The Dolpo Expedition — Nepal

A five-week backpacking expedition covering 200 miles through Nepal's remote Dolpo Region led me into a world unlike any other: a place Peter Matthiessen called "the last enclave of pure Tibetan culture left on Earth" in his book The Snow Leopard. Hidden deep within the Himalayas, Dolpo is a realm apart; accessible only by foot (or hoof), as no roads penetrate its rugged terrain. The 18,000-foot mountain passes and lack of roads have helped preserve Dolpo's culture and way of life, where cars are nonexistent and ancient traditions endure.

The journey began in Jomson, taking me over 18,000-foot mountain passes, through deep valleys, and into remote villages where time seemed to stand still. Each step brought challenges: altitude sickness, a stomach virus, a knee injury, relentless winds, and steep, unforgiving trails. At times, I almost gave up. Yet these hardships were eclipsed by the raw beauty and cultural richness of the region.

One unforgettable highlight was spotting a snow leopard, often so elusive it's called the "ghost cat." Though the distant silhouette I captured was not worthy of a portfolio piece, the sighting felt like a rare and profound connection to the unspoiled wilderness of Dolpo.

The people of Dolpo are of pure Tibetan lineage and live in harmony with their environment, carrying forward traditions that date back millennia. Their villages, framed by prayer flags and ancient stupas, reflect a way of life that echoes the nomads of Central Asia who arrived centuries ago. This expedition was more than a trek: it was a passage into a living museum of culture and spirituality. Dolpo’s untouched beauty and sacred rhythms left me with a profound respect for its people and the timelessness of their culture.

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Riding the Andean Spine